Streatwear boots

  • upper leather: box calf or softer, nappa leather
  • bélésanyag: borjú vagy sertrés színbélés, báránybélés
  • sole: leather sole, non-slip or thick rubber sole on request

 On request

The instep is lower than usual to be comfortable for walking. The street version is made for its own shape, meaning it can follow the leg’s shape more closely.

  • traditional without a zipper
  • inside zipper (makes them easier to use and can be made to fit the leg more closely at the ankle and heels)
  • winter variation with lamb fur lining
  • handmade with wooden nails
  • single stitched (thinner)
  • double stitched (thicker

Streatwear boots

Guide

We can send you pictures about our available leathers in your chosen colour.

Please give the measures in millimeters, and use the guide.

Measuring

– Please take the measurements from the feet in socks.

– In case of streetwear boots, please take the measurements with your trousers if you would like to wear them inside the boots.

– In case of riding boots, please take your measurements with riding pants on.

1. Foot drawing

Draw around both feet in sitting position while wearing socks. Your feet should be perpendicular to the paper, and the two feet drawings should be diagonal to each other on the paper so they can be recognised separately (so all details, like bunion width and so on, can be seen clearly). Use a thin pen and hold it perpendicularly to the paper, and avoid double lines.

Please repeat the drawing in standing position too.
It is not necessary to do a total outline while standing. the important parts are the toes and the heels. This is necessary because when a person puts weight on the feet the length can change in different ways. The left and right feet are both measured since there can be some difference between the two as well.

2. Measuring the bunion

From the big toe (“bunion point”) to the end of the smallest, this is measured in a diagonal line (see video).

3. Measuring the instep

The instep has an outstanding bone where you take the measurement (usually for formal shoes this is at the second upmost lace hole).

4. Measureing the heelpoint width

This is measured from the heels to the point above the instep (see video). This should be measured loosely, depening on your preference.

5. Measuring the ankle width

This is measured above the ankle. Please add 1,5-2 centimeters to the actual width here. For regular boots we skip this measurement, since the rest of the size will give the final shape.

6. Measuring the calf's height

Find the calf’s widest point, and measure the height (from the ground) there. This is done on the leg’s inside.

7. Measuring the calf's width

This is the width of the previous point (where the calf is the widest). This needs to be measured in both sitting and standing position, since the muscles can move differently for every person. For this measurement, please choose your preference (loose or close fit).

8. Measuring the inner stem height

This depends on your taste. Measure the height on the inside, while keeping in mind the type of the boots (for riding boots, jumping boots or competition boots it’s usually fairly high to provide protection and to look elegant, while street boots are a bit lower for more comfort).
Also keep in mind that, depending on the model, with time this size will shrink about 1-2 centimeters.
This size is the inside and back height, on the outside it’s usually higher, with a curve of 2 to 6 centimeters (higher curve means the top won’t be as closely fit). The difference in the inner and outer height depends on the chosen model.
(Note: we try to make the boots to follow the leg’s shape as closely as possible)

9. Measuring the stem width

This also needs to be measured both in standing and sitting position. The boots will have the best shape if there is no more difference between the calf and leg width than 2 centimeters. This is also the maximum difference for boots without a zipper, since the calf needs to have space to get in the boots.
If this difference is bigger than 2 centimeters, the solution can be to put laces on the outside part of the top. Boots with zippers don’t have this problem, but if the difference is too big, the boots might not have a nice shape, in this case you can measure the leg width a bit looser.

with insole

In case you have insoles:
Measures 2, 3 and 4 needs to be taken with the insoles as seen on the videos.

Measurements are made on both legs.

Also, if possible, please send a photo of the calf without trousers, it can help us to make a boot that follows the leg shape closely.

Leathers

1. High quality French and Italian box calf leathers in different colours and shades.
Elegant leathers with typical high shine, which we recommend for shoes, short boots, streetwear boots and some kind of riding boots.
2.Mildly “fatty”, thick, strong, special Hungarian cowhide leathers with high durability in different colours.
Plant tanned leather which is painted in barrels and has natural, matt shine. We recommend this type for Hunting boots, Polo boots, Riding boots, short boots. Mostly, if you like the thick and durable style.
3.Relatively thick but comfortable, strong, high quality black box leather.

We recommend this leather especially for Riding boots, Hussar Boots.

4. Other optional leathers, lamb fur lining.
Suede leather, Scotch grain box calf, Crocodile pattern box calf leather, patent leather, lamb fur lining.

Wooden nails

With wooden nails the leather sole is attached to the sole lining.

Single stitched

 The leather sole is stitched manually to the sole lining.

Double stitched

An extra layer of leather gets stitched to the sole lining in addition to the regular one. Both layers are stitched separately.

Non-slip sole variations (recommended)

Regular

Winter non-slip

Form sole