Ankle boots

  • upper leather: depending on the model, calf or ox leather
  • lining: calf or pigskin
  • sole: leather sole, non-slip sole on request
  • handmade with wooden nails
  • handmade single stitched
  • handmade double stitched

Classical old riding shoes model. They are comfortable, elegant and can control the width of the shoes on the foot.

They hold the ankle, are easy to put on and take off and are more practical and recommended for everyday wear on the street. They can be produced with fatty leather with or without lamb fur for winter time and are ideal winter shoes.

The zip is curved a little at the inside part of the shoes and therefore this model can be made exactly fitting onto the leg/foot. They are very comfortable, recommended for everyday street wear, mainly in autumn and winter time. We produce winter version as well, with fatty leather and with lamb fur. The inside leg height can be produced at request.

Can fully follow the shape of the leg. Ideal and very comfortable everyday wear. 

The zips and the elastic part provide the comfort and stylish look. This model is a good choice for riding or for streetwear too.


Ankle boots


Please give the measures in millimeters, and use the guide.


– Please take the measurements from the feet in socks.

– In case of streetwear boots, please take the measurements with your trousers if you would like to wear them inside the boots.

– In case of riding boots, please take your measurements with riding pants on.

1. Foot drawing

Draw around both feet in sitting position while wearing socks. Your feet should be perpendicular to the paper, and the two feet drawings should be diagonal to each other on the paper so they can be recognised separately (so all details, like bunion width and so on, can be seen clearly). Use a thin pen and hold it perpendicularly to the paper, and avoid double lines.

Please repeat the drawing in standing position too.
It is not necessary to do a total outline while standing. the important parts are the toes and the heels. This is necessary because when a person puts weight on the feet the length can change in different ways. The left and right feet are both measured since there can be some difference between the two as well.

2. Measuring the bunion

From the big toe (“bunion point”) to the end of the smallest, this is measured in a diagonal line (see video).

3. Measuring the instep

The instep has an outstanding bone where you take the measurement (usually for formal shoes this is at the second upmost lace hole).

4. Measureing the heelpoint width

This is measured from the heels to the point above the instep (see video). This should be measured loosely, depening on your preference.

5. Measuring the ankle width

This is measured above the ankle. Please add 1,5-2 centimeters to the actual width here. For regular boots we skip this measurement, since the rest of the size will give the final shape.

6. Measuring the calf's height

Find the calf’s widest point, and measure the height (from the ground) there. This is done on the leg’s inside.

7. Measuring the calf's width

This is the width of the previous point (where the calf is the widest). This needs to be measured in both sitting and standing position, since the muscles can move differently for every person. For this measurement, please choose your preference (loose or close fit).

8. Measuring the inner stem height

This depends on your taste. Measure the height on the inside, while keeping in mind the type of the boots (for riding boots, jumping boots or competition boots it’s usually fairly high to provide protection and to look elegant, while street boots are a bit lower for more comfort).
Also keep in mind that, depending on the model, with time this size will shrink about 1-2 centimeters.
This size is the inside and back height, on the outside it’s usually higher, with a curve of 2 to 6 centimeters (higher curve means the top won’t be as closely fit). The difference in the inner and outer height depends on the chosen model.
(Note: we try to make the boots to follow the leg’s shape as closely as possible)

9. Measuring the stem width

This also needs to be measured both in standing and sitting position. The boots will have the best shape if there is no more difference between the calf and leg width than 2 centimeters. This is also the maximum difference for boots without a zipper, since the calf needs to have space to get in the boots.
If this difference is bigger than 2 centimeters, the solution can be to put laces on the outside part of the top. Boots with zippers don’t have this problem, but if the difference is too big, the boots might not have a nice shape, in this case you can measure the leg width a bit looser.

with insole

In case you have insoles:
Measures 2, 3 and 4 needs to be taken with the insoles as seen on the videos.

Measurements are made on both legs.

Also, if possible, please send a photo of the calf without trousers, it can help us to make a boot that follows the leg shape closely.


1. High quality French and Italian box calf leathers in different colours and shades.
Elegant leathers with typical high shine, which we recommend for shoes, short boots, streetwear boots and some kind of riding boots.
2.Mildly “fatty”, thick, strong, special Hungarian cowhide leathers with high durability in different colours.
Plant tanned leather which is painted in barrels and has natural, matt shine. We recommend this type for Hunting boots, Polo boots, Riding boots, short boots. Mostly, if you like the thick and durable style.
3.Relatively thick but comfortable, strong, high quality black box leather.

We recommend this leather especially for Riding boots, Hussar Boots.

4. Other optional leathers, lamb fur lining.
Suede leather, Scotch grain box calf, Crocodile pattern box calf leather, patent leather, lamb fur lining.

Wooden nails

With wooden nails the leather sole is attached to the sole lining.

Single stitched

 The leather sole is stitched manually to the sole lining.

Double stitched

An extra layer of leather gets stitched to the sole lining in addition to the regular one. Both layers are stitched separately.

Non-slip sole variations (recommended)


Winter non-slip

Form sole