Please give the measures in millimeters, and use the guide.
– Please take the measurements from the feet in socks.
– In case of streetwear boots, please take the measurements with your trousers if you would like to wear them inside the boots.
– In case of riding boots, please take your measurements with riding pants on.
Draw around both feet in sitting position while wearing socks. Your feet should be perpendicular to the paper, and the two feet drawings should be diagonal to each other on the paper so they can be recognised separately (so all details, like bunion width and so on, can be seen clearly). Use a thin pen and hold it perpendicularly to the paper, and avoid double lines.
Please repeat the drawing in standing position too.
It is not necessary to do a total outline while standing. the important parts are the toes and the heels. This is necessary because when a person puts weight on the feet the length can change in different ways. The left and right feet are both measured since there can be some difference between the two as well.
From the big toe (“bunion point”) to the end of the smallest, this is measured in a diagonal line (see video).
The instep has an outstanding bone where you take the measurement (usually for formal shoes this is at the second upmost lace hole).
This is measured from the heels to the point above the instep (see video). This should be measured loosely, depening on your preference.
This is measured above the ankle. Please add 1,5-2 centimeters to the actual width here. For regular boots we skip this measurement, since the rest of the size will give the final shape.
Find the calf’s widest point, and measure the height (from the ground) there. This is done on the leg’s inside.
This is the width of the previous point (where the calf is the widest). This needs to be measured in both sitting and standing position, since the muscles can move differently for every person. For this measurement, please choose your preference (loose or close fit).
This depends on your taste. Measure the height on the inside, while keeping in mind the type of the boots (for riding boots, jumping boots or competition boots it’s usually fairly high to provide protection and to look elegant, while street boots are a bit lower for more comfort).
Also keep in mind that, depending on the model, with time this size will shrink about 1-2 centimeters.
This size is the inside and back height, on the outside it’s usually higher, with a curve of 2 to 6 centimeters (higher curve means the top won’t be as closely fit). The difference in the inner and outer height depends on the chosen model.
(Note: we try to make the boots to follow the leg’s shape as closely as possible)
This also needs to be measured both in standing and sitting position. The boots will have the best shape if there is no more difference between the calf and leg width than 2 centimeters. This is also the maximum difference for boots without a zipper, since the calf needs to have space to get in the boots.
If this difference is bigger than 2 centimeters, the solution can be to put laces on the outside part of the top. Boots with zippers don’t have this problem, but if the difference is too big, the boots might not have a nice shape, in this case you can measure the leg width a bit looser.
In case you have insoles:
Measures 2, 3 and 4 needs to be taken with the insoles as seen on the videos.
Measurements are made on both legs.
Also, if possible, please send a photo of the calf without trousers, it can help us to make a boot that follows the leg shape closely.
With wooden nails the leather sole is attached to the sole lining.
The leather sole is stitched manually to the sole lining.
An extra layer of leather gets stitched to the sole lining in addition to the regular one. Both layers are stitched separately.